Terra Cotta Soldiers - And More

After a brief stop at a museum dedicated to a neolithic village found in the area, we headed off to the previously mentioned "institute" related to terra cotta warrior souveniers. Then on to the premiere attraction in Xi'an.

The first emperor of what was to be China, Qinshi Huangdi, attained that title by defeating and bringing together about a half dozen previously warring kingdoms. He's also the guy who got the Great Wall started around the second century BC. One of his other works -- an army of thousands of full-size, uniquely featured terra cotta warriors buried to the east of his own mausoleum (which remains untouched due to the fear of disturbing too many potentially valuable relics) -- remained unknown to the world until 1974, when three farmers stumbled into them while digging a well.

The fact of their existence is impressive enough. The fact that no one knew they existed for two millennia struck me as equally, if not more mind boggling. That said, entering the multi-football-field sized enclosed area where the delicate work of unearthing the army in place is being undertaken is an experience worth the trip.

One of the original farmer discoverers, having outlived his friends, has been installed in the accompanying museum as well. They trot the old guy out to sign books purchased in the museum shop. Our guide tells us that the government actually lost track of him until a few years ago, when Bill Clinton visited China. Clinton, ever interested in the little guy, apparently expressed interest in meeting the farmers who found the site, which sent the government scurrying to find them. It was then that they found out that only one was still alive. According to the story, the old gentleman was illiterate, and had never even written his name before. When he found out that Clinton wanted his autograph, he had someone teach him. He's apparently made a career of that autograph ever since.

Later that day, after a stop at the Tang imperial hot springs complex of Huaqing, and a side trip to an old gent our guide knew who still lived in a "cave," actually a rather acceptable hole cut in the side of a hill, we were slated to close out our visit to Xi'an seeing a dinner theatre performance of classical Tang Dynasty song and dance. Remembering a similar exposure to Beijing Opera in Guilin, it really wasn't on the top of our list in terms of anticipation, but it turned out we were pleasantly surprised at the very nice instrumental ensemble and singers.